Support was from Home Counties and Hot Face

This was my first trip back to Rockaway Beach since before lockdown. I was meant to be going in 2022 but caught COVID. It was good to finally be back.

As a side note. All credit to Butlins. They refunded my break with no quibbles. One example of the many things Bultins gets right. How many festivals would have done the same?

With the on-going train strikes, I had to drive to the festival for the first time. I much prefer sitting on a train planning the festival ahead. But the strikes need to happen. Thankfully the sun was shinning and opting for A-roads, the drive took in some nice scenery and was all rather pleasant. I took this as a sign that this was going to be a good festival.

Arriving at Butlins for 1pm. The weather took an immediate turn for the worse. Literally the moment I stepped out of the car it started raining and that was it for pretty much that for the rest of the weekend. This is the first time I never left the site for the whole weekend to go for a coastal walk. Luckily, there was a packed weekend ahead and the site is so compact, you are never more than five minutes away from your accommodation. Butlins at Bognor is a great site for a January festival.

When the lineup was announced, it seemed like there was some bad planning. The first band was playing before Butlins were going to allow us into our accommodation. Thankfully, the rooms were ready at 1pm and this gave me time to unwind before heading to Reds for the first act, Panic Shack.

Panic Attack played the Horn last year and I was a bit frustrated by them. I felt they needed to decide if they want to be an edgy punk band or a fun pop punk band who get their message across less directly, but have a wider appeal. This time I was prepared for their split personality and found their set much more enjoyable. With songs like Jiu Jits You, and Mannequin Man (complete with dance moves), they have the DNA of an incredibly fun pop punk. They clearly don’t take themselves too seriously. They also have a cracker of a song in ‘I don’t Really Like It’ that reminds me of PINS. At the Horn, I found the switch to angsty songs a bit jarring. This time, I went with them. But I think their strength is when they are the fun version of themselves. I spoke to so many who thought Panic Shack were their highlight of the festival. So they are clearly doing something right.

I saw Deep Tan last year. However, they were on the same bill as Deadletter and Priestgate and frankly were forgettable when up against two stellar performances. In 2022 they released their ‘Diamond Horsetail’ EP. Every song comes in at under 3 1/2 minutes. They have a bit of New York art school post-punk about them. They are happy to throw in changes of direction into their songs and musically cover quite a bit of ground in 3 minutes. I do like them on record. But I think their live versions probably could do with loosening up a bit. Some of songs end too abruptly and they caught out the audience on two occasions who didn’t know it was time to clap. I think stretched them out a bit might leave the audience less confused.

I have been wanting to catch Hull’s Low Hummer since they released their very danceable ‘Modern Tricks for Living’ album. I wasn’t disappointing. Switching between male and female vocalists gives them a different dynamic to most bands out there. Think early 80s keyboard driven post-punk, crossed with Seattle 90s grunge guitars and throw in a touch of Alvvays. It all combines for a very listenable sound.

One of my complaints from earlier Rockaway festivals was how I perceived there to be a lack of music. Usually, there are no clashes with 30 minute gaps between bands. I like bouncing between venues on a constant binge of new music. I like an ‘eat as much as you can’ musical buffet of a festival. Rockaway is more of an expertly crafted tasting plater. Whereas at SXSW I see 30 bands a day. At Rockaway, we are talking about seeing 10 bands in a day. Initially, this left me wanting more. But over the years, I have come to see a place for both. Rockaway is a perfect way to ease me into the new year. It is January after all, best leave all that rushing around between venue nonsense for the later in the year when it is warmer.

However, this year, Rockaway had clashes. The Reds stage stayed open and it gave the organisers the opportunity for two alternative headliners in the form of Yard Act and Anna Meredith. I tend not to be too fused by the legacy acts they have as headliners, I think this was a good change as it gives the festival a chance to take a punt on a band who might not actually be ready to headline Centre stage. The only issue from a ‘Down at the Front’ perspective, as I had no photo pass, it meant I would have to accept crap photos once there were clashes as I wouldn’t be at the front (and I’m not going to push my way to the front when people have held their place on a barrier).

Given LIFE were playing the main stage. My initial choice was easy. I love LIFE so there was no chance I was going to miss them. It was the second time they had played Rockaway. The first time, they were the highlight for many and it wasn’t a surprise to see them moved to the big stage.

As usual, they were brilliant, energising the crowd for the evening ahead. It didn’t take Mez long to ride around the crowd on somebody’s shoulders and from that point the band had the crowd in the palm of their hands. I am surprised that the festival organisers haven’t taken a punt on them headlining the Sunday night. They would be a brilliant way to close the festival. Maybe next year?

I decided to stick with the main stage for Billy Nomates. I am not completely convinced by her as a live act. She has an absolutely brilliant voice and despite having an amazing stage presence, it is still her and a laptop. While she managed to move around the stage and fill it with her performance, I still think she would benefit from a band. I really think she would thrive off the dynamics other musicians could bring. I feel like we are being denied her full talent. Saying that. She was still entertaining. But I would love to see her up-close on a smaller stage.

The next hour of so, there really wasn’t much to keep me entertained. The Primitives in Reds didn’t do much for me. Upstairs, Self Esteem were impressing the Rockaway crowd, but are not me. I feel like I’m not in on the joke. Ex-indie musician creates a pop band. Not sure where the punchline is. She is not for me. Downstairs, although not usually my thing, W.H.Lung impressed with their electro pop and the singer had high register vocals that reminded me a bit of Andy Bell.

Closing the evening was Peter Hook on Centre Stage and Anna Meredith in Reds. Fair play to the festival organisers for giving us a choice. Peter has headlined Rockaway before and upstairs was very busy. Yes, he has an amazing back catalogue with Joy Division and New Order. But he is still Peter Hook covering Joy Division. He is not Joy Division. Anna though is an amazing talent. Sitting somewhere between classical and dance. She composes pieces that work with her small group of talented musicians, but also scales to a full orchestra sound. For me it was an easy choice and I opted for the brilliant Anna. Her music was a joyful way to finish off their evening.

Day 2 was a strong on paper. Reds was full of great new acts, closing with Yard Act. Headlining the Centre Stage was OMD. So there as a lot to look forward to.

Winter Gardens impressed the midday crowd. Two female vocalists and a manic guitarist. They describe the sound as ‘dream punk’ and it does have the textured layering of shoegaze. But then their manic guitarist adds a layer of expressive guitar that changes the pace and keeps the whole thing interesting.

The next band were the festival highlight for many of us. Personal Trainer from the Netherlands are a seven piece who are all having a blast playing their music live. They come across as a bunch of mates who like mucking about with each other. They just happen to have also released a great album in 2022. I got the feeling they would play just as manically if there was no one there. Their lead singer Willern Smit had an infectious joyous charm. Definitely one to watch.

I had been hearing good things about VLURE. For some reason, I expected them to be an IDLES clone. But they play dark electro-punk with a sweary, ‘twelve pints of Glaswegian angst’ attitude. Highly enjoyable. I can imagine 11pm in a dark club would be the best time to catch them.

The sound engineers at the festival did a good job of getting a reasonable sound out of Butlins venues that were never designed for indie music. They had done a fantastic job earlier in the afternoon of handling the complexities of Personal Trainer. So it was surprising the sound for POZI was poor. Sadly the violin was drowned out in the mix. Given much of POZI’s charm is how they use the violin to replace angular guitars to create an alternative take on the post-punk sound. It was pretty important the mix was right. I think POZI realised things weren’t sounding great but they did their best anyway. Disappointing, but this was the only time were the sound was poor.

Sound improved for The Goa Express, who play jangly indie. As I have seen before, I watched half their set and then took the opportunity to take a break.

Melt Yourself Down were a big surprise. A perfect festival band. Mixing elements of jazz with North African influences, they have a very danceable sound. Lead singer Kushal Gaya does a great job of working the crowd. I think everyone was impressed by them.

At 8, the Centre Stage opened putting Big Joanie up against The Futureheads. I have seen Big Joanie many times so opted to for the Futureheads. Sadly, the performance was marred by lead singer, Barry Hyde suffering from vocal issues and other members of the band had to take up vocal duties. As their vocal harmonies are an important part of their sound, tonight didn’t quite work. After half their set I decided to head up to watch Big Joanie.

Sadly, I had a realisation seeing Big Joanie on the big stage, I don’t think I like them playing big stages. When they came on the scene. They supported everyone and their sound grew on my, but it was their performances that drew me in. Playing small tightly packed stages, with Chardine’s drums front and centre, their performances were very dynamic. Tonight on a big stage. It was clear their performance hasn’t developed for these larger venues. The three seemed isolated from each other and the deficiencies in their sound more obvious as the performance was static. Odd, because they have been a support act on big tours. I would have thought they would have gained more stage craft and realised they have to fill the stage with their performance, not by spreading themselves out. I am not sure I will bother watching them again on a big stage again. I will catch up with them when they play smaller stages.

Managing the clashes, I stayed upstairs to watch half of the Anchoresses set before catching Scalping with the hope of getting a space at the front for Yard Act.

This was the Anchoress’ first gig since before COVID. Before Christmas she put up a crowdfunded to help her purchase some air purifiers. She is clinically vulnerable and the air purifiers have been designed to clean the air around her when she performs to give her the confidence to play again. I still wear masks at the front as I don’t want to be responsible for passing on something to an artist causing them to cancel a tour (and for me to avoid missing more gigs). It was really good to see her back playing again giving us the opportunity to enjoy her beautifully crafted music.

Downstairs Scalping brought industrial rave to Rockaway Beach. Dark grungy guitars played over rave music accompanied by 3D visuals. All combined, it reminded me of the Amiga demo scene. It was all a bit intense for me. I was never a raver but found myself dancing. But after about 30 minutes, it all started to blend into one and also I was a bit knackered!

Taking the opportunity to creep a little bit more centrally after Scalping finished. I was all set for what turned out to be the biggest disappointment of the whole festival.

Bands like IDLES have created a blueprint for being successful. It involves a lot of hard work and nonstop touring. Something that breaks most bands, as they can’t cope with all the negatives touring brings with it. Since seeing Yard Act last January, the band seem to have followed the IDLES playbook and they have said yes to every booking. Looking at Songkick. It says they played well over 100 gigs last year, including North America and European tours. They are about to head off to Australia. That is a lot of gigs, a lot of travelling with the poor lifestyle that comes with it.

Even before their Rockaway set, they travelled down from Leeds via Kingston where they played a gig, before heading to Butlins for a Q&A and headline set. After all that effort, playing a gig at 2315 might not have been the best idea.

I have to admit, I was a bit shocked by their appearance when they walked on stage. James and Ryan looked frazzled. The spark James had last year wasn’t there. Instead his witticism seemed like barbed comments. Was he joking about the late stage time and the fact that they had said yes to playing a January gig? I’m not sure he was. I felt like I was watching somebody who could be heading for a breakdown. I really hope people around him are looking after him.

I found the whole set very uncomfortable. It didn’t help that some pissed girls had pushed their way to the front and talked loudly during the songs. I am not sure if James was aware of them. But he gave one of them the microphone and said they should sing the next song. The girl was then annoyed and told him she was the paying audience. After that, he seemed to lose interest. Instead of playing their 75 minute slot, he decided 45 minutes was enough and that was them them done.

If people around the band are reading this. Give the guys a break. They look like they need it.

With Yard Act finishing early I headed upstairs to catch OMD play their ear worm ‘Enola Gay’. It sounded really good. Maybe I picked the wrong stage?

Steve Lamacq closed the evening with his usual DJ set. But I headed back to my room to edit photos.

The final day started with a break in the rain and clouds. I probably should have taken the opportunity to go for a walk, but I was still editing photos. Sadly it didn’t hold and the rain came back.

First up was one of my favourite artists. John J Presley with his grungy blues. He was a nice late addition to the festival. I suspect he was added as he was playing guitar for the Anchoress.

Pagans SOH played Rockaway in 2019 and impressed back then. It was a no brainer for the organisers to invite them back. Sadly, they still had an early slot. I would like to see them given a later slot so they play to a fuller room. They mix funk, hip hop, rock, well anything really. Kind of like a chilled out Rage Against the Machine. That is not to say they don’t take their music or topics seriously. Marcus, their singer is so personable that is hard not to like him and the band.

Dream Nails appear to have changed their lineup. The time I saw them as a support act, they didn’t stand out. In fairness to them, I had rushed from another gig and only caught the last few songs of their set. But I don’t remember a particularly animated performance. With their new singer, that has changed, jumping into the audience trying to start a mosh pit amongst us oldies. A definite improvement over my memory.

Another new band for me was Rats on Rafts. Hailing from the Netherlands with probably the coolest name of the festival. A clever name that seems to sum up the political situation since the banking crisis. They make an incredibly good sound. Driving post-punk baselines are used to anchor often psychy fuzzy guitars meaning they sound fresh amongst the wash of post-punk bands around at the moment. I will definitely be catching these again.

Sadly, I missed much of Modern Woman’s set. The bits I heard, intrigued me because I couldn’t work out what I was meant to be hearing. The singer has a great voice but one that seemed at odds at times with the music. There were elements of folk scales with the singer’s vocals regularly shifting registers and a violin adding folk accents. Other times the music followed a more traditional post-punk structure. The bit of the set I heard left me intrigued and that is not a bad thing.

Another artist who could easily play the main stage was Hamish Hawk. Effortlessly charming with a dry sense of humour. ‘I think Bognor is the best of the Regis. Sorry Lyme’ is an example of the little nuggets of humour he sprinkles through his set with. It helps that the band play great indie pop music too. I think everyone in Reds had a smile on their face. That is the effect he has on the audience. I think it is impossible to dislike Hamish. Seek him out if you see him on a festival bill.

After Hamish, I wasn’t too fused about the rest of the evening. Figuring it would get busy for the Undertones I dropped off most my camera gear in my room and decided I would dip in and out of the rest of the evening. Most of the evening was legacy bands that I knew I wouldn’t be too bothered about

On returning, Reds was absolutely rammed for the Beats. Upstairs, Fake Turins were pleasant. I decided to leave the Undertones after a few songs. The Undertones music is such youthful music, in my mind, the band are always young, locked in a time capsule. However, I felt the capsule cracking as I watched these old men playing songs that they no longer represented. Closing the evening was Panda Bear and Sonic Boom who played a soundscape of a warm summer on the cold winter evening. It was all pleasant but I decided to take it easy and grab a few beers in the bar.

Overall, the festival did everything I needed it to. It recharged my batteries and killed the early January blues. Musically, I think the festival team did a great job of balancing the legacy acts with new blood. Usually on Sunday, the numbers drop away as people head home for work on Monday. The choice of putting The Undertones and The Beat on Sunday meant this was the busiest Sunday I can remember. Introducing the second stage gives bands the opportunity to headline without the risk to the festival by them on the big stage before they are ready. And yet again, the organisers seem to have found lots of interesting bands to fill up the afternoon slots to connect us to new artists.

One plea to artists who play next year. Be aware the audience is full of older people. A few bands asked the audience to get down on the floor. I think they heard the creaking of all our knees as far away as Brighton. Please save my knees next year.

If the idea of going to Butlins for a festival puts you off. Don’t be. Bultins staff are the friendliest around. The rooms are reasonable and clean. Butlins isn’t too expensive and there’s a range of other things to do. Butlins really do care about making your festival experience a good one. And the Rockaway festival isn’t a standard Butlins music weekender, full of groups of people in fancy dress. This is a music festival for 6Music listeners. What better way to ease yourself into the New Year than listening to new and old music. Despite my initial reservations in 2015, I think I have found my antidote to January Blues. Next year is already booked.

All waving flags

We’re all waving flags now

Waving flags

But don’t be scared”

And so it came to pass, a few hundred Sea Power fans from across the country and even further afield, headed to a small castle on the edge of the Lake District to celebrate our shared passion and emotions, at an event we never though we would see again.

This was a rather unexpected and welcome surprise. A 2022 addition of Sea Power’s Krankenhaus festival. The first was an astounding success with fans, but struggled to make money. With the band playing Christmas shows to help pay the other bands on the bill. I will not have been alone in doubting there would be another festival. I thought, if we were lucky, we might see another Brighton Krankenhaus. After two dark years, to hear Sea Power were going to repeat their festival, was beyond our lockdown dreams. So much so, several fans made the long trip from overseas to be here.

This time the festival price increased by £30.  However an extra day of music was added and a few hundred extra tickets made available. It is still very reasonably priced and given how great the last one was, an absolute bargain. I think most of us would happily pay £200 if it happens again.

Again, the festival was taking place in a barn, next to a castle, at the edge of the Lake District. All the eclectic activities were happening again. Trips on a miniature steam railway, fell walks, musical bingo, talks in a castle, birds of prey display etc. Dogs and children were again welcome. The castle owners, who were brilliant at the first festival, promised improvements. With proper showers this time. An already great festival was going to be even better. Given how preposterously good the first one was. Was that even possible?

While I didn’t mind camping last time. I thought I would grab some local accommodation. This time, it was taking place the weekend before ‘End of the Road’ festival so it wouldn’t be cannibalise its own audience. However, it was now taking place over a Bank Holiday weekend. With the local hotel and pub were already booked out, I opted for a nearby Airbnb.

The week leading up to the festival I decided to bin a few gigs. I didn’t want to miss another festival due to COVID. Only going to the re-arranged LIFE in-stores. I did have a late night Prom booked for after the Rough Trade LIFE gig. But knowing that I would need to start early to tackle the a 5 1/2 drive the next day. I headed home early.

Of course, travel day had to be a one of the few days in the summer when the South was hit by bad weather and I made very slow progress to Ravenglass, dealing with torrential rain and long tailbacks. After nearly seven hours in the car I finally arrived at my digs for the next few days. Thankfully, the place was homely and after a cup of tea, I was off up the hill to the castle to get myself registered.

The castle’s visitor centre had been changed into a nice little seated space. Ewan, the son of the current Lady Frost-Pennington was working the welcome desk. Like last time, the family mucked in throughout the weekend. Helping the castle’s staff with all the little jobs, including clearing the bins. This is a real working castle and based on these visits, the family work hard to keep the castle going.

As I walked up to the festival site. Immediately, the place felt like home. It is hard to explain why. But us Sea Power fans are I guess a bit like a cult, or at the very least an odd clan. Last time the castle staff made us feel so welcome, the castle has a special place in our hearts. I have to admit, I walked around the site with a smirk on my face and I am not sure my feet were touching the ground. 

Our utopia for the next few days was still under construction, readying itself for hoards looking for beer and a hay bale to rest on. Even while still under construction, it was clear there had been improvements. A smart vegetarian food truck was setting up with the enthusiastic owner promising to change our minds on vegetarian food. The bar had been moved out of the barn into a covered area in the main courtyard, leaving space for a merchandise desk next to the stage. No walking half way across the castle grounds to find the merch room. The silo was once again being used as a snug. A table tennis table had been added to keep the kids occupied, along with a small one person cinema.

I was surprised to see the chickens still confidently strutting around the festival site like they were Mick Jagger waiting to go on stage. Surely, with people bringing their dogs, they wouldn’t be roving around the site tomorrow?

Speaking to Paul, one of Sea Power’s roadies, he took me through to backstage. Sitting in the corner looking rather depressed was Bi-Polar, one of Sea Power’s bears. Clearly Bi-polar had taken being relieved of their Sea Power duties rather badly and was looking a bit dishevelled. Would the bears be making an unexpected return? I thought better of mentioning it to anyone over the next few days in case they decided not use the bear.

I then trotted off to look around the castle to get some photos. But sadly the sun was getting low and everything was in shadow. I told myself I would find some time over the weekend to photograph the grounds, but it turns out a comfortable bed was more welcoming in the morning than photographing the gardens. 

Heading back down into Ravenglass, I was greeted with a glorious sunset over the estuary at a pub with a fantastic view. After a nice, but expensive meal. I had a few very reasonably priced pints and chatted to a few other Sea Power fans who had made their way from all corners of the country. All excited for the next few days. I couldn’t help having ‘Waving Flags’ worming it’s way into my head. What is so special about this band that drags us from all over the country to meet in a barn?

Day 1

Although I was staying local. There was no way I was going to miss an hour of the festival traipsing back and forth to my digs to get things. So I drove my car up to the festival site to leave it there until Monday.

Unlike the last festival, the main Muncaster Car park was cordoned off. Understandable, it was a Bank Holiday weekend and they were expecting their usual tourist trade. Part of the field next to the car park was given over to us, along with a big camping space for campervans and caravans. Unlike other festivals where they charge to bring motorhomes on site. There was only the nominal parking charge. If it did rain, we were all close to the road. You won’t get stuck at this festival.

After a wander around festival barn and the hive of activity as final preparations were being completed. Expecting to be busy for the rest of the weekend, I headed straight to catch the birds of prey display. How many festival can claim to have something so cool? The castle has an active breeding programme for several endangered species and the performances help subsidise their upkeep. If you get a chance to visit, one word of advice, duck. 

The festival itself was opened with a warm welcome by Peter Frost-Pennington. As great as the last festival was. There was an obvious issue, the lack of showers. Peter rightly, was proud to point to the new showers they had built for the festival. The whole family seem down to earth and throughout the weekend kept asking people what they could do to improve the festival. It is a really nice feeling to think they cared what we thought and clearly want the festival to happen again. After all, this their home. It must mean we weren’t bad guests. They are a large part of what makes the festival so good. Thanks for having us. But I am racing ahead of myself.

The first day of the festival, although only an evening of music, was a very strong lineup. Starting with Sea Power’s first set of the festival. It was the set the majority of Sea Power fans were looking forward to the most. A complete play through of Open Season in album order. While I had bought Sea Power’s albums, I didn’t see them live until 2009 and had missed their Open Season tour. I was really looking forward to hearing the whole album played live.

While I think lockdowns are fading into the past. We all have lockdown memories, good and bad. Sadly, too many lost friends and relatives. For many of us, we only had to deal with the isolation. For those of us who live on our own, the virtual events that happened at the beginning of the first locked that brought people together, helped me feel like a human being. Just a few hours talking nonsense. It is amazing how useful that is for our mental health. In the very early days, Sea Power’s ‘Tim’s Listening Parties’ were incredibly helpful. Connecting me back to a real life I was missing. I know walking around the site on the first day, I reflected how in those early days, I wondered if I would ever experience this feeling again. It is good to feel normal again.

I know for many it was an incredibly emotional set. I mentioned in my review of Sea Power’s Derby gig, how I had been looking forward to doing the ‘normals’ again after the COVID lockdowns. Those things in your life that were an ever-present before lockdown and missed greatly during it. For me it was little things like going to a football match and seeing Sea Power. At the Derby gig, a wave of emotion hit me and I was close to tears. Here, I could see many in the audience having the same moment. I suspect for many, this was the first time they had seen Sea Power since before lockdown. This band means so much to many of us. I think we are all part of the shared insanity that makes them special. 

No one had to say anything. 

We all knew how each other was feeling.  

It was great to hear the album played in full. It has a different atmosphere to all their other albums. I always feel it is a more laid back and reflective work compared to Decline and their albums that followed. It was the perfect set to open a festival, easing us into the festival mood. 

My one and only criticism of the festival was the timings on the first day. Something they thankfully fixed the next day. Sea Power went on stage just about on time. From that point on, the timings went to pot.

Next up was a band I was looking forward to seeing, the Umlauts. There are a band I had tickets to see, but I was unable to catch them. They feature two lead singers, singing in German over Krautrock-esq tracks. I was initially thrown by their first song. It just didn’t grab me. (Set list said it was ‘Sweet’).  But by the time they were shouting machine gun-like into the microphone during ‘Energy Plan’. I was happy. This was more like I was expecting.

I haven’t really got on with Wild Beasts in the past. They felt too derivative. Likewise, their lead singer, Hayden Thorpe didn’t do much for me when I saw him at an in-store for his solo album. Seeing his keyboard set up on stage, I have to admit, I had already pre-judged his set and thought it might be a good opportunity to grab a beer. As it turned out, due to a technical problem with his keyboard, Hayden changed his set on the fly and decided to sing with his guitar. I think we got a better set. Unfortunately, he did get his keyboard working and then launched into earnest ‘keyboard songs’. They just weren’t my thing.

Another band I wanted to catch were bdrmm, who I learnt are pronounced bedroom. Obvious really. But for months I have been calling them b.d.r.m.m. Often when I see ‘shoegaze’ type bands, despite liking their albums, playing live, I find them boring. Too many showgaze bands lack stagecraft. I want a performance that feels ’live’ and bdrmm certainly deliver that. Allowing the music to build up momentum to almost psychy levels, flailing guitars around, before bringing it back under control and focus. There was no falling asleep with this performance. 

Pigs, Pigs, Pigs, Pigs, Pigs, Pigs, Pigs are both a force of nature and also an acquired taste. I am still not sure if I have acquired the taste or I am simply hanging on at each performance like a white knuckle ride at the fair. I never know where to categorise them and I think that contributes to their success. Are they metal? Psych? They lack the experimental nature of psych and they never resort to fret wanking like you get with metal. Doom Psych? I don’t really know. The audience was split too. For some, this was one of the performances of the festival. Others, left and had a beer. A really nice touch, a young lad who had chatted to their guitarist at the merch desk saying he had been learning their songs, was invited up to play. All the other members of the band contributing to make this lad’s day. Chatting to him and his parents later in the weekend, this had made his summer. Nice touch lads.

Closing the evening, over an hour later than planned. Gruff Rhys and band brought the vibe down and the crowd back together with a good set of his solo work. He didn’t finish until 1am and the programme said that the site closed around 1am, so I decided to grab my torch and head off down the hill back into the village. But I believe John Doran from the Quietus spun records until there was no one left standing.

Day 2

Starting day two early. I headed out to grab some breakfast at the restaurant serving ‘the Ratty’, Ravenglass’s steam train. One thing about Ravenglass is everyone is incredibly friendly and I spent some time chatting to locals about the area as I caught the early morning breeze from estuary. I then discovered the most amazing shop that was like something from a Two Ronnies sketch. If you go to Ravenglass, visit the Post Office. That’s all I will say. You have to experience the place for yourself.

On day 1, I had dragged a very heavy camera bag around with two mirrorless cameras, six lenses, a smaller Fuji camera and my laptop. I would be lying if I said my back wasn’t hurting. I had hardly used my long lens and there was never really any opportunity to download any of the videos or photos so I decided to leave both behind. This would be a theme through the rest of the weekend. Each day I left more gear behind and by the end of Day 2, gave up capturing what turned out to be very shaky poor video footage.

Despite the lighter bag. The hill to the castle seemed steeper than it had been on Thursday night. I must get fit for the next Krankenhaus.

The music wasn’t starting until 1pm but the Krankenhaus team had arranged an eclectic morning of activities with talks in the castle and a dog show for the 30 or so dogs that were attending the festival.

The first talk was Roy Wilkinson interviewing journalist and author Amy Liptrot about her autobiographical books. The first of which, the Outrun is being converted into a film staring the amazing Saoirse Ronan. There was a second talk with Lias Saudi and I heard was really interesting, but I had headed out to see the Sea Power judge, ‘best rockstar’ dog! I mean, how many festivals have dog shows?

The first two music acts were actually the same people with slightly different hats. Group Listening and Sweet Baboo. Group Listening are Stephen Black (Sweet Baboo) and Paul Jones who create ambient music using clarinet and keyboard. A nice start to the day for anyone with sore heads. Sweet Baboo, who seems to have worked with every Welsh artist at some point. Lifted the energy levels slightly with his own material. But to be perfectly honest, I took the opportunity to get grab some food and listen from a comfortable bale of hay. (I was reminded I had actually photographed these guys at Daylight Music)

Interspersing the two performances was Mark Radcliffe talking to the always entertaining and self-deprecating Stephen Morris of Joy Division and New Order fame. Who had lots of interesting things to say about the dynamics within New Order.

These talks in-between acts worked really well. Helping the day run on time. The next talk was the extremely entertaining Steve Davis and Kavus Torabi with Chris Hawkins. Have to admit. I am surprise Chris made it. He introduced the bands the previous day and by 1 am, he was pretty leathered. As a childhood fan of Steve. He is one of the few people I get starstruck by. I love how he has played on his Spitting Image persona and seems to love life and doesn’t care. Steve was at the last festival (please make him a regular) and he talked about his massive mistake at the last festival of drunkenly mansplaining how the modular synth works to Hannah Peel (who I’m listening to on the radio as I write). 

Mark Radcliffe’s own band, UNE played next. Not really my thing. But good festival fun. 

After a brief game of ‘cosmic bingo’, Utopia Strong put in another good set. While a friend commented fairly, that Utopia Strong make the headlines and get the gigs because of Steve’s presence. It is Kavus with his psychy guitar work that pulls everything together. I love them. And it is Steve Davis….. I wonder if next time I should ask Steve were I can get a replacement red ball for his ‘Steve Davis snooker table’ my parents bought my for Christmas when I was nine?

Next up was the Daniel Wakeford Experience. Apparently he is an autistic reality TV star. I knew nothing of him. I am not sure how many of us knew who he was. I don’t think the Sea Power audience is a reality TV audience. Musically, I thought the band was an odd choice for what is a very ‘6Music festival’. Their sound felt more like something that would sit better with a Radio 2 audience. From a music point of view, the music wasn’t to my taste and after 20 minutes, I took the opportunity to grab a beer and sit on a hay bale.

My thought at the time was that this was musical misstep for the festival by selecting a ‘Radio 2’ band. But it was later pointed out that I was viewing the performance in the wrong light. Musicians with disabilities are marginalised and they need to see artists like Daniel on festival bills to inspire them. Performers like Daniel are vital in changing the perspective of audience members like me. A special word for the keyboard player who continued playing when her keyboard stand collapsed to the floor. She just squatted down and got on with her job.

Anyone who has been to a Sea Power gig in the last year will have seen Devon’s Pale Blue Eyes. They will also have seen how far they have developed in a short period of time. Tonight, they were absolutely scalding hot. They seem really comfortable with each other and have a great dynamic on stage. 

Highlight for many, Lias Saoudi from the Fat White Family was up next. I have only seen the Fat White’s a few times and a small proportion of their audience discourage me from seeing them too often. Playing with a makeshift band of willing volunteers from other bands who had played that day. It felt like we were witnessing something unique and special. Sparkling with an intense fire. Lias spat his way through his set. The other musicians inspired, held on to his coat tails as they followed him on his rollercoaster ride. I’m sure it was as visceral experience for them, as it was for us. Talented musicians inspired by being part of something unique. It is great to see music can still be so loose and so special.

I have never known Sea Power to be competitive. They never seem to be in the game of putting the support bands in weak position. Happy to share the stage with bands like Bo Ningen who can make any headline act wonder if it is worth following them. But I think they knew they had seen something special. While they have been putting in consistently good performances for several years. Tonight, following Lias, they knew they had to be on their game. 

The set mixed the old and the new. I think it is a mark of the strength of their latest album, that songs like ‘Transmitter’, ‘I Only Want to Make You Happy’ and ‘Two Fingers’, could start off a set so strongly. The energy was clear. The audience reacted  and were in for the ride. There were so many happy faces around me. There was the same buzz I felt at the Derby gig. The audience were there for Sea Power and they band were doing their best to repay our devotion. We were witnessing Sea Power at the top of their game. When they played Lately. I was lost. I can and have listened to Lately on repeat. It is my favourite song from any band and to hear it live is always special. Tonight, even the band knew they were part of something special. They were up for the challenge and the audience loved them for it.

After three strong sets. What could follow that? Well a ‘well oiled’ pairing of Steve Davis and Kavus Torabi playing records. With Kavus going full-on metal god as they started the set off with Slayer! (?) And we loved it. 

Day 3

What better way to blow off the cobwebs and hangover than to take a ride on a steam train and go on a four mile hike through the fells led by Martin? Well going to the castle with a cup of tea and a bacon sandwich to listen to a talk from two insane Sea Power fans! I might walk 10 miles around London every Saturday, but London is flat and I know I am unfit at the moment. After what happened at the Great Escape, I didn’t want to pop another calf muscle. 

Christoph and Douglas talked to Roy and the great John Robb (who looked at home in a castle), about their insane Sea Power inspired adventures. In Douglas’s case, he travelled around the British coastline to visit all the obscure coastal places listed on a Sea Power t-shirt (which Roy was responsible for). Christoph talked about his equally insane cycle rides from Germany to see Sea Power. What is it about our band they causes this level of obsession? I guess the fact the band found time in their festival programme to showcase two of their fans, probably helps. (Douglas documented his journeys on his excellent blog https://germinalroadtrip.blogspot.com)

Next up was a really entertaining talk from the formidable Jane Savidge about breaking Suede. A really interesting talk. She talked like a machine gun and I’m sure she has used words as weapons in the past. You could tell, if she is one your side, you have somebody who will do everything for you. But she would rightly put you in your place if your step out of line. It was interesting to hear the stories about early Suede and some of the tricks her PR firm pulled to get them noticed. 

I had intended to head to the barn to see the first band of the afternoon, Memorial. Roy had adding an extra talk from Hayden Thorpe after he realised Hayden had just written a book. Afraid no one would be there, those who had been at Jane’s talk were asked if we could stick around and I am really pleased I did. I think might have misjudged Wild Beasts and Hayden himself. Talking about his book, his music life, and Cumbria. He seemed really personable.

Up in the barn, Haiku Salut had already started to weave their intricate multi-instrumental soundscapes. How they change so effortlessly between instruments astounds me every time I see them. Beautiful music from extremely talented musicians watched by a small, but attentive audience. Not a bad way to start the day’s strong lineup.

Filling the gap between bands, Simon Armitage, poet laureate, again performed some of his poetry. Sadly, he didn’t keep a record of what he performed last time and some of his set was a repeat from the last Krankenhaus. It was still very pleasant and an opportunity to kick back on one of the bales in the barn with a cold drink.

All Sea Power fans know Sea Power’s brilliant roadies Paul and Stewart. Their band Daemonic Fonce were up next. Bands don’t always have to take themselves seriously. Just go up to enjoy yourself and play the music you enjoy. Playing irreverent pop punk, they were great fun.

There weren’t many bands on the bill I hadn’t heard of before. Loose Articles were one of the few. Normally, I don’t do much pre-festival listening but when there’s only a few, I gave them a listen and there was no way I was going to miss them. I love the DIY, every song is 2 1/2 minutes long aesthetic. I like loose music when it is done with passion, energy and love. ‘Kick Like A Girl’ is 2 1/2 minutes of pop punk fun. Thankfully they were everything I wanted. The lead singer, Natalie, does the whole talk, shout, singing combination. Her Manc accent only adding to their charm. I will definitely be catching this band again.

Now in a very good mood, I looked with trepidation at DITZ up next. I have a faint memory of seeing one of they early gigs and not being impressed. I must have been remembering a different band, because DITZ were excellent. I seem to remember them as a jangly indie guitar band. But that wasn’t the band who played today. Dark, angular, acerbic post-punk,songs. At times, there was a touch of Gilla Band about them. Always on the edge of screaming in anger. The music felt all the more menacing because they kept a lid on it.

I know I am going to lose an indie stripe for this. And I don’t blame you for taking it away from me. I don’t deserve it. But I have to fess up. I don’t get the Bug Club. No, I don’t understand why either! Songs with a touch of the Velvet Underground. Lots of energy. Great to photograph. Surely my kind of thing? But for some reason they don’t work for me. It is not them. It is me. I seem to have been the only one who doesn’t get them. I really wish I did. 

I have covered LIFE in this blog many times. They deserve to be much bigger than they are. Live, they are just great fun. They’re lovely people. They write great pop indie songs.  What else can I add? Duck Egg Blue is a cracker of a song. Sorry for doubting it when I first heard it. What was especially lovely about this gig was Mez’s own son watching from the front of crowd. There was also another young LIFE fan singing and loving every word of their set. What’s not to love about LIFE. We all have to learn to love LIFE.

I always think Richard Dawson is an acquired taste. Yet everyone who sees him, acquires the taste too. I think what he is, is a genius. The way he subverts folk into punk. The way a stamp of his feet conveys more emotion than many musicians can conjure with their instruments. The way his he de-tunes his guitars to perfectly compliment his vocal style. It all adds up to create a truly unique sound that feels fresh, ageless and edgy. Given how quiet he can be, I moved to the side of the stage so I wouldn’t disturb him with my camera clicking. From the side of the stage, all I could was a sea of mesmerised faces. A truly special musician. 

This Is The Kit make great indie-folk. But for me, they aren’t headliners. While good music, I don’t find it as danceable as say LIFE. But that’s my just me. Most of the audience appeared to be loving the set. Don’t get me wrong. I did enjoy their set. It is just for me they have an early evening feel and I took the opportunity to kick back and listen from the bales with a beer. Music for hay bales. You can put that on your posters, or maybe not. 

The Modern Ovens, featuring many familiar faces played a set of VU covers with a stream of faces from the other bands. Lias again showing his stage craftsmanship with an edgy performance. It was a good way to close the day. A bit of fun allowing people to slip away to grab a drink or an early night.

Day 4

Are we a cult? That was my question by day 4. A lovely, benign cult, but a cult all the same? We had spent days living in a glorious Sea Power bubble. We all understood each other’s obsession. The site was awash with lovely people. 

At one point I had a weird little flash back to my Cub Scout camps when I was about 10.  Okay, there was a lot more beer at this festival than at Cub camps. But I guess it is the only place I have been to where everyone was on the same page. Other festivals are full of people with different tastes. Here a whole bunch of people from around the country with the similar tastes, came together to sing, to play games, to go on hikes, bird watch, listen to talks and music. We were in our bubble and the world seemed right. Yes, Krankenhaus is scout camp for adults. Maybe they need to introduce Krankenhaus activity badges?

Living in a Sea Power bubble with so many friendly and lovely people. Every one of us loving this funny little band that friends and family view our obsession with slight bemusement. I know I didn’t want the weekend to end. 

Monday started with two enticing options. One was to walk back down the hill I had just walked up, on a ramble with Martin around the Muncaster estate. The second, listen to Roy talk about his Dark Lustre books. Yes, I choose the later, only to find we had our own Sea Power guest in the form of Hamilton and rather than talk about his books, Roy created a quiz. The quiz was maximum Roy. With everything from identifying bird sounds, to guessing the Mark E. Smith titles. Hamilton was there to play some of the music questions. 

Despite spending half my life in music venues, I am terrible at music quizzes and I opted out and watched. Keeping mental track of my own answers. I only managed to get two right. What an abysmal performance. But at least I didn’t have the embarrassment of somebody marking it. Although from the reactions around me, I wasn’t the only one who did so badly. Good fun.

Monday’s lineup was perfect for those who had to sneak away and great for those staying. Just four artists, finishing early evening with a Sea Power set of rarities. After yesterday’s high energy offerings, I was looking forward to a more low key day.

Alison Cotton started the day off. I had seen Alison in her ‘The Left Outsides’ form several times and photographed her for Daylight Music at the Union Chapel. This was a slightly different experience. Made even more surreal when one of the farm’s chickens nearly became dog food. The surreal sight of Alison tapping her gong with a screeching chicken zooming across the barn over a table and through the back door, followed by a dog chasing it, with the owner walking across the barn head bowed down hoping no one noticed. In the Great Muncaster Battle of Chicken vs Dog, the chicken won. So all was good. Alison looked slightly bemused but soldiered on.

Many singers have tried their hands at poetry. But how many poet laureates have tried their hand at creating a band. Well current poet laureate sits right at the centre of that particular Venn diagram. I had heard his LYR aren’t great. But I really enjoyed them. There’s an absurdness to many of his poems that lends itself to music. It was all really pleasant and a bit like his poetry set, a good accompaniment to bale sitting as I rested tired feet.

Low is a band that has passed me by. This festival was going to change this. However, they had to understandably cancel as Mimi is being treated for cancer. Hopefully, they will be at the next Krankenhaus.

Replacing Low were Beak>. Another band I had never seen, despite owning their albums. I had imagined their music to be a lot more electronic than it was and therefore maybe lack something live. It turned out they create a compelling live experience. Helped by a lot of stage banter amongst themselves that was fun to watch, I have to say, they have an incredibly danceable sound. Thankfully, by this point, I had long given up on capturing video and I can dance and photograph. So I was in my element. This won’t be the last time I see them.

Closing the event was Sea Power with a low key set of rarities featuring two of my favourite songs. A Wooden Horse and Bear. It would be nice if some of these songs could be occasionally sprinkled into current set lists. But with such a massive back catalogue and so many favourites that fans expect to hear. It must be impossible deciding what goes into a set list. But the set was very much appreciated by the audience and me.

And just like that, the bubble burst and it was time for a few pints in the local before and early night, so I could get up early for the long race back to South East to get to Public Service Broadcasting’s gig at the Proms. 

I really hope they find a way to run more of these festivals. It was clear the castle want to run them again. Oddly, they seemed to enjoy having us. I felt the band were enjoying themselves. I know we did, as did everyone I chatted to. It is such a brilliant little festival. It can’t be judged like other festivals. The DIY nature means we don’t judge it as harshly as a corporate festival. But that doesn’t mean is it shoddy. In fact, in pretty much every department this festival ran better than a big festival. Even the toilets were cleaner than any festival I’ve been too. The site works well. There was a good choice of food. The beer was ridiculously good value. Everyone, and I mean everyone. Everyone was friendly and helpful. It is truly a special event. Everyone involved in making it happen should be very proud. Their hard work paid off.

You know how your nanna used to make a dish that was basic, but was made with love and made you warm inside every time she cooked it for you. This is that festival. This is my nanna’s panacalty. (NE dish of potato, dumplings and corn beef). There. You can put that on the posters next time you run it. ‘This festival is like my nanna’s panacalty’ – Down at the Front. I can’t give you a better review than this. 

I had listened to the album a few times since it’s release. It is a more mature album. But on first listen, it seems to lack the immediacy and indie pop sensitivities of previous albums. For example, Duck Egg Blue had been release as a single and hadn’t connected with me. However, live, it is a different beast. Absolutely beautiful song and great live. It sits well in the set creating a moment of calm reflection. The other songs on the album also work well live. LIFE remain one of the best live acts. Well worth catching.

I had been really looking forward to this gig. LIFE are a fantastic live band. It seemed like lots of other people I know felt the same. Tonight’s gigs seemed to be full of people I know. Clearly I know a lot of people with good taste.

Supporting LIFE was Nuha Ruby Ra. I’m really not sure how to categorise her. ‘Art’ probably needs to be pre-pended to the category, her music is very much part of a performance piece. Starting off with a stereotypical ‘Native American war cry’ using two microphones over a dark industrial influenced electronic music. I really liked it. I reminded me of the 90s industrial scene with the heavy use of samples and dark soundscapes. While her performance kept my attention, I would love to see her with a band behind her. It could be truly next level stuff.

LIFE have always been a mixture of catchy songs and great live performances. In Mezz, they have a truly great front person, in the Jarvis Cocker mould. A gawky self confidence, with self aware cheekiness. The rest of the band support him, but never play second fiddle.

After nearly two years away. Tonight they started off with a bang, with their hit Popular Music. A perfect way to get the crowd going after such a long time away. This gave them the momentum to throw in new songs, which signal a change to their sound. The pop edge seemingly tempered with a more contemporary post-punk sound that wouldn’t be out of place amongst bands like Fontaines. While I can understand why they might want to move in that direction – I hope they don’t move too far away from their indie pop sensibilities, as there is no one else who does what they do. But what we heard tonight, was good, leaving me eager to see where they head with their new album.

Set list

• Popular music
• Big Moon Lake
• Moral Fibre
• Shipping Forecast
• Hollow Thing
• Niceties
• Incomplete
• Almost Home
• Never Love Again
• Beautifully Skint
• F.W.N
• Self Portrait
• Excites Me
• Grown Up
• Bum Hour
• Half Pint Fatherhood

This was my third Rockaway. I previously complained about the lack of music for a music festival. You are only going to see 10 bands each day. I guess for many this is as much as they would normally see at a festival. But I tend to see nearly 30 a day at SXSW and around 20 at Great Escape. So I have found the lack of options frustrating in the past.

But this year, I decided to approach this festival differently. This is the music festival where I get to kick back in what’s usually a very long depressing January and have a break by the seaside listening to an expertly curated music lineup, playing in the arcades and eating chips, and it worked. I felt much more refreshed after this festival than I normally do after a music festival.

With the recent backlash against the lack of women on festival bills, it’s worth noting that the Rockaway has done a reasonable job of introducing female fronted acts. While there was still no headliner, (maybe they could persuade previous act, Nadine Shah to headline next year?), at least one of the bands on the big Centre Stage was female fronted with Brix and the Extricated, Nova Twins and Soak. In the case of the Nova Twins, this was a very helpful boost for a very talented band.

This year I decided to stay in the onsite hotel. It is a rather odd experience, with lifts designed to be diving bells, playing the Jaws theme music as you ride it. The rooms are (submarine) yellow and the children’s bunk beds designed to look like the inside of a submarine. A bit surreal, but the rooms were clean and well appointed and you didn’t hear the sound of people walking up and down the metal walkways, like you do in the chalets. Let’s face it, I wasn’t going to be spending much time in there anyway.

Day one began late afternoon with Indian Queens. They are two sisters with their friend on drums, who are at the rock end of indie, with strong guitars, drums and vocals. There’s no washy guitars with this band.

In their early days (when they were Bleach), they were a little too derivative. But with their reinvention as Indian Queens, they have developed a much more interesting catalogue of material – but they never quite leave their rock origins behind. A strong start to the festival and I think for many in the crowd of early festival birds, a new discovery.

There’s a vocal style amongst a small number of female artist doing the rounds at the moment that often grates on me. It’s the one where the artist puts on an affected childish sounding voice. At times in her set Bellatrix used that technique. While the music was okay, I’m afraid I couldn’t get past the vocal affectation and gradually edged to the back to allow somebody who was enjoying the set more than me, my space at the front.

The Polish band Trupa Trupa were up next. Their singer had one of those excitable friendly personalities where he made you feel the band thought this was a special gig and he was going make sure we were part of it. Many of the English songs were light on lyrics. But that didn’t affect my enjoyment of the psychy indie music.

Young Knives are a band I have never got. They have a new lineup they described as Young Knives V2. I’m afraid this didn’t change my appreciation of them.

With Friday’s late start and many people still arriving, the action moved upstairs to the bigger Centre Stage. It’s an odd layout for a gig, with a big dance floor and a slightly raised seating area. Probably demonstrating the age of the crowd, as soon as doors opened there was a mad rush for the seats at the back, something repeated each night. Obviously, Down At The Front headed to grab a place on the barrier for an interesting evening of new music and some not so new music.

First up were Black Country New Road. I have tried to catch them in London several times but failed to. One time, they didn’t play until after I had to catch my last train and I heard from people afterwards how great they were.

What surprised me the most, was to see how young they appear to be. From their sound, I expected to see people in their late 20s/early 30s. Instead, it looked like the chess club from the local sixth form college had picked up instruments and kidnapped the actual band. And the chess club analogy is not far from the truth. The music they play is intricate and needs them to play off each other. They are a very talented bunch, playing complex music that shares as much with jazz as it did with rock. They have something in common with Squid and Black Midi – a less anarchic chess club version. I’m not sure their music is mainstream enough for them to become big, I think Squid is the most likely out these bands, as they go for 3 minute ‘smash and grab’ songs that suit radio play. But they are definitely going to go down well at festival audiences

SOAK has passed me by. The bits I have heard sound pleasant but unremarkable. Tonight with a band, she was still unremarkable. I think to highlight this, when I looked at my photos for the gig, they all looked the same which is something I see from most singer / songwriters. But equally when you move to a larger stage and take on a band, you have to find a way to perform on the larger stage. I took the opportunity to grab my first beer of the festival.

Closing the evening was John Cale. I have to admit I only really know his stuff with the Velvet Underground. He’s now in his late 70s, having lived a life that put many of his contemporaries in the grave. But despite being a little bit slower and his voice older and less strong, he seemed in remarkable good health and spent the evening exploring his back catalogue, including an extended, less angular version of ‘I’m waiting for my man’.

Day 2 looked interesting with a mixture of bands I’ve seen before and new names. The first band, Pagans SOH, had previously impressed me at the Great Escape. So I knew it was worth making sure I got to Reds early.

There’s always a chance when you see bands at an intimate festival like The Great Escape, you may not enjoy them when they play at a less intimate festival. I was hoping that wouldn’t be the case with Pagans. At TGE I was touching distance from them, essential in amongst the performance. But there was no need to be concerned. All the elements I enjoyed about their performance was still there.

Much of the charm of Pagans is their frontman Marcus. The band mix, rock, ska, reggae and rap but don’t sound derivative or ever threaten to become a Rage Against the Machine. Definitely worth catching in a small venue.

First new band of the day, Scrounge, didn’t hang around, with a blink and you will miss it, 20 minute set that left me wanting to hear more. With the classic garage rock lineup of a drummer and guitarist/vocalist, they made post-punk music, with a garage attitude. I liked them.

At some point you have to take breaks and I decided that as I had seen Penelope Isles a few times, including earlier this year, this was a good point to head back to my hotel.

Heading back to Reds to catch Rascalton, a Scottish no nonsense punk band, there was a lot of positively for Penelope Isles. It seems they went down well.

Rascalton are the kind of punk band that play straightforward rock ‘n’ roll with a bit of agro. I liked them. Direct without being in you face. They held my attention.

Next was one of my favourite discoveries of this festival, The Sweet Release of Death. As the name suggests, they are not setting out to create music that is soft and fluffy. Instead, they have a kind of doom noise sound. At times they reminded me of Esben and the Witch when they’re off on their 12 minute long journeys. I really enjoyed the layers and textures they built up over each (long) track. One to catch again.

Unfortunately, I had to make another trip to my hotel room, so I missed the beginning of Our Girl’s set. I always forget how much I like Our Girl. I’ve seen them probably half a dozen times. There was a time before Sophie’s other band took off, where they seemed to be getting regular support slots. Over time they grew on me and I now like them a lot, especially when they open up and hit the fuzz pedal. I wonder what they would have achieved if it wasn’t for Big Moon taking off. I have to admit, I prefer Our Girl.

Okay. Let’s jump straight to the point. Self Esteem, weren’t for me. I gave them a few songs and then left and joined the queue for the Centre Stage. I saw Slow Club several times and this is a big bold departure from Rebecca. She’s basically created her own version of a pop group, complete with dance moves to every song. Not for me.

Upstairs, was a bit of a mixed bag. Peter Perrett beyond his hit song, ‘Another Girl, Another Planet’, I don’t really know his work. I enjoyed the set. Probably as much for his excellent guitarist.

Next up, a really good move by the Rockaway schedulers, Nova Twins. I have seen them several times in small venues in London. They always manage to cause the place to explode. The obvious comparison is with Rage Against the Machine. But they play without the Rage and much more fun. They are a really good band. Tonight they showed they are ready to be at the top end of the festival order. They had the entire Butlins audience in the palm of their hands and causing their usual havoc, jumping into the crowd to finish off their great set.

I felt sorry for The Jesus and Mary Chain having to follow the Nova Twins. I have never really got them. There’s the odd song I like. Tonight didn’t convert me to the chain gang. I gave them a try. I stayed at the front for a few songs but they basically played in the dark and there was little benefit of being at the front. So I grabbed a beer and started to download photos while listening to them. Nothing caught my attention and eventually I moved on.

Closing the evening was Steve Lamacaq playing one great song after another to a pretty packed crowd who stuck around to dance into the early hours.

Day three was always the strongest on paper with Fountaines D.C. and LIFE, but there was still time for some surprises.

First up Adwaith, a welsh band who sang several songs in Welsh. They were pleasant enough. For me, the English songs were stronger than the Welsh songs.

Eyesore and the Jinx were new to me. They are from Liverpool and have a psychobilly sound. I’m a bit of a sucker for that sound and it’s rare you hear a contemporary indie band exploring the sound. I loved their set.

Next up, The Vegan Leather did nothing for me. After the dark psychobilly, the happy indie pop of Vegan Leather left me cold. If it wasn’t for the fact that I wanted to hold my place for LIFE, I would have gone to get something to eat.

I love LIFE. Mez, their singer has the confident swagger of Jagger and that cheekiness that Jarvis has at his best. That wouldn’t be enough if they didn’t have good songs and a strong band behind him. Everyone in LIFE contributes. Lydia, the bassist, dances around the stage swinging the base around like it’s a dance partner. While, Mick, Mez’s brother, split kicks his way around the stage (annoyingly, I missed every one of them!)

I love LIFE. They are the kind of band I want to be in. They make catchy music, but with a message and they make sure they and the audience enjoy themselves. I really hope they get a break in the next 12 months that catapult them to the next level. They are ready for the big time.

Melys were up next. A 90s band I don’t remember. They were pleasant enough,

I had seen Heavy Lungs support the Idles. I enjoyed them at the time. Not sure why, but tonight, while they put on a good show, I was left a bit indifferent. Maybe it was seeing them so soon after LIFE.

Closing Reds for this festival, the International Teachers or Pop. They were an amusing diversion for a few songs.

At this point I made a tactical mistake. Previous evenings, people started to queue up, but the queues were small and most in the queue headed to the back of Centre Stage to grab tables for the whole evening. So I decided to grab some food and when I got back, the queue was much longer than in previous nights and worse, when the doors opened they filled up the barrier. I could tell that they were the kind of people (like me) who were there for one thing, Fontaines. Suspecting that it might get a bit moshy at the front, I opted for the end of the barrier to stay away from any potential camera damaging action.

Opening the evening was Brix and the Extricated. I don’t like the Fall or Brix’s music, but I find Brix fascinating and her set was a bit like that. The music didn’t hold my attention. Brix is a very good performer. Although I have to admit, I prefer it when she’s telling stories!

Anyone at University in the early 90s knows the Wedding Present. There was alway a t-shirt or two floating around and somebody was always playing them somewhere in Halls. They have grown on me over the years, but never enough for me to listen to them regularly. Tonight was no different. I enjoyed the performance. But I’m not going to raid their back catalogue (again)

And so we come to the final band of the evening. Rockaway Beach’s booker took a massive gamble that the Fontaines D.C. would be a big enough draw to headline a festival. I missed them in 2018 and finally caught up to them in the Mohawk at SXSW where it was obvious they had something. Fast forward less than 12 months and they have already headlined the Forum and now they are headlining a festival.

Tonight that same nervous energy they showed at SXSW was there. But honed for the big stage and an expectant crowd. They have been championed on a 6 Music, especially from Steve Lamacq and Rockaway is a Steve Lamacq audience. Right from the off, they owned the stage. They sounded much better than when I saw them at the Forum a few months ago, where I felt the sound was awful. Tonight, they showed us how they were ‘going to be big’. Oh yes, they are.

Most of the set was the same as the Forum. But they introduced two (?) new songs which were an interesting guide to their future direction. They seemed to explore a wider sonic landscape than the first album. I suspect their second album will move their sound on considerably.

What I find interesting about Grain, the Fontaines singer is that he has the Ian Curtis nervous energy approach to performing. He paces around the stage shaking and bashing the microphone stand and seems to be impatient for the band to catch up to him. He never talks to the crowd beyond saying three or four words, but the crowd don’t want him to. He seems to hypnotise us and we don’t want him to break his hold by interacting with us. It works. I don’t know why. But it does.

Well done for the Rockaway team for gambling on them. It is these odd decisions that helped me decide to return to the festival. If you continue to make these big decisions, I can overlook the lack of music.

And with that, another Rockaway ended. Butlins is a surprisingly good venue. Heading back to a room every night, is my idea of a festival. Sitting in the onsite Burger King with members of bands on the next table, is a weirdly democratising activity. The Butlins staff are universally brilliant and friendly and while I would like more music, the music there is, is expertly chosen by the Rockaway team. I’m not sure I will be back next year. I’m hoping to do SXSW next year. But I suspect I’ll be back in 2022

For the last few years, singer song writers have featured heavily but this year they have taken a back seat. This probably reflects who I’ve saw this year. It is also the first time a Jazz record has been on my list, with Jamie Branch. And for probably the only time, the list features a snooker player!

As usual, deciding on the order has been difficult. I’ve spent the last week re-listening to all my favourite albums to work out my top 20. The top three were especially difficult as they all were my favourite album at some point of the year.

Top 20 Albums of 2019

1. Fontaines D.C. – Dogrel
2. The Murder Capital – When I Have Fears
3. Black Midi – Schalagenheim
4. Dry Cleaning – Sweet Princess EP
5. LIFE – A Picture of Good Health
6. Drahla – Useless Coordinates
7. Richard Dawson – 2020
8. Erland Cooper – Sule Skerry
9. Warmduscher – Tainted Lunch
10. Avalanche Party – 24 Carat Diamond Trephine
11. Girl Band – The Talkies
12. Aldous Harding – Designer
13. RAKTA – Falha Comum
14. Jamie Branch – FLY or DIE II: bird dogs of paradise
15. Lewsberg – Lewsberg
16. Automatic – Signal
17. Ezra Furman – Twelve Nudes
18. Snapped Ankles – Stunning Luxury
19. The Utopia Strong – The Utopia Strong
20. French Vanilla – How Am I Not Myself

This year, Slaves were headlining the Saturday night, so I decided to take a punt. I’m so glad I did. Wilkestock is a gem of a small festival.

One great thing about Wilkestock is that it is a charity event with profits going to selected charities. Everything about this festival just felt right.

I don’t think I’ve ever been to a festival in a field where it is so easy to move around between stages – not that many people did. The site is compact and but the stage times staggered so there is very little overlap. There’s lots of little spaces to chill out in and people found a comfortable chair and seemed to stay there. Yes, I did say comfortable chairs. This is a different type of festival.

The lineup wasn’t necessarily top names. Instead the lineup was full of top quality up and coming bands. The main stage featured bands that are just knocking on the door. The second stage featured a some of the best local bands during the day and in the evening some bands that will hopefully feature on the main stage in the next year or so, such as one of my favourites, Avalanche Party.

The mix of national and local acts is a good combination for a festival line this, using the big names to make people aware of bands who play locally to help the increase their audience. Music on all stages was programmed by Juicebox Live who programme the Horn, so I’d seen many of the local acts already.

As with any stage showing local music, it will always be a bit hit and miss. Most of the bands I had seen previously at the Horn. But it’s always worth giving a local band a second listen. They often aren’t fully formed yet and their performances can quickly transform from something terrible into something great

Highlights were Carretta, a band I’ve seen a few times with a great front man and new band for me, Wink. I believe they are from St Albans but all studying in Leeds.

On the main stage the Pearl Harts impressed again. I’ve seen them many tines playing the Horn and in London. This was the first time I had seen them play a big stage and although the crowd was still pretty small when they played, they went down well.

First highlight of the day was Lady Bird from Kent. Signed to the Slaves own label and sharing some of the same DNA, this three piece, showed the same high energy pop punk sensibility as the Slaves raising the energy of the audience to the point where some people actually got out of their chairs to form a mini mosh pit.

Next, one of my favourite bands of the moment, Life. Mixing songs from the first album and upcoming album. Previously, I had only ever seen them play small venues like the Old Blue Last. But Life proved they have what it takes to play big stages

The Slaves closed the main stage to a swelling crowd. It’s sad that many only arrived to watch the Slaves as they’d missed some great bands. As you would expect the Slaves set was energetic and frantic and lapped up by the excited crowd. They are pretty much the perfect festival band. Pop punk with tongue firmly in cheek, it’s hard not to like them.

Sadly, after Slaves finished, the late comers all started to disappear off back home. With was a pity, as on the Bella stage, music continued into the small hours with excellent sets from the Dunts, the very impressive Strangebones, and personal favourites Avalanche Party.